Kolhapur: The iconic Kolhapuri chappal, a hallmark of India's traditional footwear craftsmanship, is regaining global prominence amid rising interest in indigenous crafts and a recent row involving Italian luxury brand Prada. The government has now stepped in with a technological solution to preserve authenticity and empower artisans, introducing QR code certification for every pair of the GI-tagged leather sandals.
Renowned for their intricate craftsmanship, durability, and cultural legacy, Kolhapuri chappals are handmade using naturally tanned leather and traditional weaving techniques. Originating from Maharashtra’s Kolhapur, Sangli, and Solapur districts, the sandals date back to the 12th century and have been handed down through generations of skilled artisans.
The recent controversy surrounding Prada's new men’s collection, which allegedly featured footwear strikingly similar to Kolhapuri chappals, sparked outrage among artisans. Accusing the brand of violating Geographical Indication (GI) rights, local craftsmen demanded recognition and protection for their heritage product. In response, Prada acknowledged that the designs showcased in its men’s 2026 fashion show were “inspired” by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear. The brand clarified that the products were still in the design phase and had not been finalised for commercial release.
Following the uproar, a team from Prada visited Kolhapur earlier this month to engage with local artisans and examine the region’s footwear manufacturing process.
In a bid to preserve the cultural legacy and ensure rightful recognition for craftsmen, the Maharashtra and Karnataka governments jointly secured the GI tag for Kolhapuri chappals in 2019. Under the World Trade Organization’s TRIPS agreement, the GI status restricts the rights to manufacture and sell the footwear to artisans from designated districts in both states. The certification mandates that the chappals be handmade using traditional processes, open-toe construction, and natural leather, prohibiting synthetic materials and mechanised production.
Now, taking the protection further, the Leather Industries Development Corporation of Maharashtra (LIDCOM) has introduced a QR-coded certification system. According to a statement from the corporation, this digital tool aims to curb counterfeiting, enhance consumer confidence, and highlight the identity and craftsmanship of the artisans or self-help groups behind each pair.
Scanning the QR code gives buyers access to detailed information, including the name and location of the artisan or production unit, the district of origin, craft techniques used, materials involved, and the current GI certification status. This initiative is designed to offer transparency to consumers while empowering artisans economically and socially.
"This initiative not only boosts consumer trust but also strengthens the market position of traditional craftsmen," LIDCOM said in its statement.
The corporation has also appealed to designers, consumers, and the wider public to stand in support of India’s indigenous crafts. “Kolhapuri chappals are not just fashion accessories. They are a powerful expression of traditional skill, identity, and the dignity of small artisan communities,” said Prerna Deshbhratar, Managing Director of LIDCOM.
Established in 1974, LIDCOM, also known as the Sant Rohidas Charmodyog and Charmakar Vikas Mahamandal has played a pivotal role in empowering rural leather artisans. Through extensive training programmes, market development initiatives, design innovation, and financial support, the organisation has elevated the Kolhapuri chappal from a humble village slipper to a globally recognised symbol of cultural pride and craftsmanship.
The chappals received a significant boost during the early 20th century when visionary ruler Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj actively promoted them as a symbol of self-reliance and Swadeshi pride. His encouragement helped transform the rural craft into a respected cottage industry and a marker of national identity.
Today, Kolhapuri chappals blend timeless heritage with modern relevance. They have re-entered international fashion conversations, not just as utilitarian items but as enduring symbols of India’s living traditions and skilled artistry.
Deshbhratar added, “Kolhapuri chappals are not merely utilitarian items. They embody stories of self-reliance, national pride, and a living cultural tradition. Through our efforts, we aim to strengthen the hands that preserve this legacy and inspire generations to come.”
Beyond economic development, LIDCOM remains committed to cultural conservation. It continues to support artisan communities through training centres, self-help group empowerment, and direct market linkages, both domestically and internationally to ensure the survival and prosperity of this heritage craft in an evolving global economy.
With PTI inputs